GREECE PELOPONNESE ARGOLIS HERAION HERAION

The Argive Heraion is not in Argos, as might be expected, but at a distance of 8 km from there. The site has a prehistoric origin where remains of a Mycenaean settlement have been found with a tholos tomb and chamber tombs neary. Originally it was the official sanctuary of Mycenae, only 5 km away, from where a sacred Mycenaean road with surviving bridges led to the sanctuary. But besides Mycenae also Argos and Tiryns were interested in the sanctuary. What followed was a 'ritualised competition' starting in the 8th century BC between these city-states with aristocratic families competing to present the most impressive offerings, showing their superiority in the region. Argos also made use of the semi-mythical story of Kleobis and Biton, the young sons of a priestess of Hera dragging her chariot to the sanctuary and rewarded with eternal sleep and commemorated by statues presented to the sanctuary of Delphi. So at some time in the Archaic period Argos took control over the Heraion, finally emerging as a religious centre for the Argive cities in general. It was dedicated to Hera, great goddess of the Argolid, as goddess of nature.

The archaeological site is fenced and (sometimes) guarded, and the entrance is free (2017) - but this could change. Alas, there are no signs or information boards, so that you have to bring your own outline map or other information to find your bearings. The site is not much frequented, and it even took me many years of travelling the Argolid before finally visiting the Heraion in 2017.

Plan of the Argive Heraion (after Wikipedia): 1. Archaic Temple of Hera - 2. North Stoa - 3. North-East Stoa - 4. West Building - 5. Classical Temple of Hera - 6. East Building - 7. South Stoa - 8. Monumental staircase - 9. North-West Building - 10. Gymnasium (Lower Stoa) - 11. Roman Baths

General Gordon discovered the Argive Heraion in 1831, and a first large-scale excavation was carried out by Sir Charles Waldstein with the Archaeological Institute of America in 1892-95, followed by others. One of the things Waldstein found most interesting were the iron objects he found in 1894. The objects were 180 iron spits (oboloi) and a bar of iron which weighed the same as the bundle with also the same length of 120 cm. Waldstein understood the obols as the objects that ancient authors described being used for money before coins were minted.

Above: The 'Cyclopean' wall, a massive wall of rounded conglomerate boulders is the oldest remain in the Heraion and tentatively dated to the Late Geometric period. It is the retaining wall of the highest terrace.

Above and below: Passing massive retaining walls on the way up to the highest terrace of the sanctuary. Here stood the oldest temple of the Argive Heraion, one of the first peripteral temples with one row of pillars surrounding the outside of the temple, erected 625 - 600 BC. - When Chryseis, the priestess of Hera, in 423 BC, set a burning torch in front of the wreaths and fell asleep, the resulting fire consumed all of the temple.